Peruvian Society II: What Do You Make of Coca Leaves ?

Where the air is thin, people used to—and still do—slowly mash a small handful of dry, acidic coca leaves as they make their way across the desert hills in silence. Some say it’s to stave off hunger or prevent altitude sickness. Personally, I doubt the locals suffer from altitude sickness. They might feel hunger after hours of enduring harsh weather and climbing at high altitudes, but they’re prepared for it. They usually carry a small portion of food, knowing it must last them through the day.

Could it be that mashing the coca leaves is a form of distraction, like chewing gum? Or perhaps the goal is to leave some on the rocks they pass by, as a sign of respect? Whatever your theory, it’s unlikely you’ll find out for sure—not because it’s a secret, but because it’s just a fact of life. And facts of life are lived, not discussed… right?

Where the air is thin, there is a tradition that speaks directly to those who are open to it. It is a tradition of seeking answers to pressing questions by reading the ephemeral: a handful of coca leaves. One needs only a few leaves, carefully chosen. When dry and turning a greyish-green, they are scattered on a cloth or in the palm of your hand. Through practice—the same practice that allows others to derive meaning from planetary configurations, tarot cards, or numbers—one can interpret the reality they reveal.